The journey home!

Airports: the first and last step of so many adventures. Of so many new life experiences. You can look at people and tell if this airport is the first or last of their journey. Something about them. Fatigue vs. excitement. ...I guess those could be switched in certain circumstances. But I feel like I can tell. Sometimes people will open to the first page of a crisp new book, which is a dead give away that they are starting their journey at this airport. Others have wrinkled clothes, a sweaty brow, and prefer to lay down on the ground before boarding... Like me. And I'm at the end of my adventure.

But let's start from the beginning.

We said goodbye to everyone the night before the morning we left. All of the guides came over and we had a beer. Cheers! Good season! Good work, team! I was all packed that night. Still sore from the forced march up Mt. Nimba, I was all prepared to leave at the scheduled time the morning of the 11th- 4:50am. It was still dark.

Here is the car we took:

This is a bush taxi. Our driver's name was Mr. Ban. He's on the right:

We drove all throughout the day. Straight through the country. Some of the most blogworthy parts of the trip were the military security checkpoints along the way. Every once in a while we would need to stop to be questioned by dark tough men in uniform. That's wasn't a comment on their skin color, please calm it. It was a comment on their AURA. Their aura was dark. I swear these military men had different faces than the other men along the roads in Guinea. They were rough, jagged, serious faces. Their temples and jaws were tense. Their hairlines and hats were in top condition. Their suits were varying styles of camouflage or pure dark green. They were taller than the other men. These guys were top notch. Please lemme just toss out there the one Fashion Police issue  I encountered: This tough-looking man in a deep, dark hunter green uniform, strong man, serious tone, was peering at our car from a distance. I could have gotten arrested if I had let my inside laughter become an LOL when I looked down to see pink argyle socks on that man!!!! Oh boy, I was struggling. 

Anyways, they usually let us pass quickly. But one time we had to open our trunk for the guy. And one time we had to show him our permission papers. 

The bush taxi was much more comfy than the 4x4 Nissan we drove in with. I could lay down in the back! Also, no seatbelt for me. Which was fine because I assumed we wouldn't crash.      ...lol...

Something about driving quickly along curling mountain roads makes me so happy. It's the mixture of being scared out of my mind and having the opportunity to only think about a single moment in time. Like, nothing else in the world is on my mind. Does that make any sense?? It's a focused rush. These mountains were gorgeous, of course. And we were zipping all around them. 

I often caught myself wondering about the human impact on the mountains. Have they always looked that way? Or was there a greener time? If only we had several consecutive WorldView2 satellite images to compare! 

The roads were usually awful but sometimes ok! The majority of the trip was spent rapidly accelerating along the pavement... And then BRAKING QUICK! to go through a patch of destroyed road rubble. Rubble, pavement, rubble, pavement. It was like riding a roller coaster that switched from being a metal coaster to a wooden coaster over and over and over for 2 days. Lol 

I didn't want to miss a single sight. After all, when in the world am I gonna get the chance to go back to Africa!? I needed to soak it all in. I loved creeping. Eye contact is my favorite hobby. 

I made friends with these children one time when we stopped. Our driver got out of the car to go do something in French... So I was left to play with these babies through the glass. They would try to make me smile. And when I smiled, they would giggle and giggle and laaaugh. Lol They started running all the way around the car! They stayed only about two meters from the window the whole time. Laughing and waving and jumping up and down. Then they ran over to that house. I wondered which one lived in that house.

I'm having writer's block right now. The trips were so long... There are so many details that will remain in my memory for ever... But impossible to write about. Like, the multi-colored buckets and the food stands and the French bread wagons and the raggedy flip flops. The dust! The feeling in my abs from the shock of the road. The smells... The gazes... The patterns. How can I explain these things? 

We stayed in a hotel that blew my mind out of its socket. It's SOCKET. We had running water, electricity, and hot showers. And beer. No bugs either! Except that cute little beetle from my pillow.

We left that next morning at 7. Same kind of landscape and mixtures of people. Until we hit the capital, that is. 

Oh, and that sentence just reminded me that we got hit in the capital. A semi-truck hit our car! Not going fast. It was a calm bump. Our driver exploded and imploded. "HE DID THAT ON PURPOSE!!" Which, obviously the guy didn't do that on purpose. But you know how minds get when they get angry. Our taxi driver teleported out of our vehicle immediately!!! And the semi boy got out!! And they verbally fought! Here is a picture! 

They eventually moved on with their lives. Which was great because I was sooooo thirsty! So we bought water from a child who was standing in the traffic. I wonder what that kid uploaded to Instagram on Christmas morning *damn-serious face*. 

BUT ANYWAYS, did I tell y'all they drink water out of little bags here?

I decided my second time in the capital that I LOVED IT. Absolutely liked it a lot. 

Finally we made it to the hotel. It was the same hotel we had when we first arrived, so no surprises. We chilled out in the air conditioning alllll the way until the next morning!

LET'S GO SHOPPING!!!!!! Our Mr. Ban and his random friend took us to good shopping areas! Souvenirs for my loves. I've seen some bargaining in my days abroad.... But NEVER as legit as what I saw on this shopping trip. I couldn't participate verbally. But I participated with my eyes and postures. So fun. But REAL. We even went to a women's co-op shop. Actually, that's the store we were specifically searching for. Girl Power. We got a few goodies from there that I can't go I to detail about....!

Then, airport. We hopped on the plane after spending two hours in the Sky Lounge being SO COMFORTABLE. I almost fainted from the shock of comfort. Free pastries and beers and electricity! 

We took a plane. The plane landed in Mauritania 1 1/2 hours after take-off to pick up some more people. The following is a quote I wrote while on that flight: 

"Currently flying over the Sahara drunk as a desert skunk. Jk. But I did have a Heineken... What!? I don't like flying :-(."

I really am scared of flying. Some of you think I'm brave out here in the world... But you should see me hugging my knees during take-offs and landings.

Magically we landed and got into the Paris airport. I navigated that airport seamlessly last time, remember?? So I was so calm. Cat, however, was rushing because her plane was leaving soon!!!! Aahhhh!!! She got me into the Sky Lounge and we said bye-bye. Two minutes later I can't find my passport.... I just put it on the table!! Where did it go!? I searched all through my bag just incase Cat put it in there for safekeeping... But no! Ahh! I SPRINTED up the stairs to hunt her down!! I was running through the airport trying to spot her bright green backpack before she disappeared onto her plane! Ah!! Lol I found her! She and I were so relieved to find out that she had accidentally grabbed my passport with hers. Disaster avoided. 

Then, I chilled in the Sky Lounge and chatted with my BFF Danielle. 

5 hours later, I ditch the lounge to walk around a bit. Soon I discovered how amazing it feels to be alone in a foreign country. The liberty smacked me in the face instantly out of nowhere and I just couldn't stop smiling. I felt independent and sure. I shopped and sprawled out on the ground. 

 

Now I'm on the plane to Atlanta. I was the biggest redneck on my first flight to Paris.... But I'm definitely not the biggest redneck on this flight to Atlanta. We are over New York right now. I have one last story to finish this post up with.

I'm sitting next to a woman who was born in 1954 (I creeped). She is from Switzerland and her English is funny. She is a bright, warm soul. We clicked immediately. We talked. She is on her way to Nicaragua and Costa Rica to do some humanitarian work. I asked if she was with a church... Her reaction was priceless! She scrunched her face up and stuck her tongue out as if the word 'church' was sour to hear! Haha! She said she is helping the people with agriculture! She is a masseuse. I figured out that translation when she started massaging my upper arm to explain, lol. We used my French dictionary app to talk about my graduation. We talked about Costa Rican monkeys. 

We have been freezing cold since the beginning of the flight. We are in agreement that it is too cold on the plane. Well, about an hour ago I started trying to sleep. I was leaning over my food tray in front if me as if I were sleeping in class. I must have looked as cold as I felt because just as I was drifting off, I felt her placing her blanket across my back. She literally tucked me in. I pretended to be asleep, like a child. The warmth I felt was further than skin deep. That was a perfect demonstration of compassion. I could NOT quit smiling or thinking about it. My heart felt cared for. After not feeling close to anyone for a month... After being alone and secluded... After not feeling like I've been on the receiving end of genuine compassion for a month- this was a serious moment for me. Am I lame for this? And since then... I've felt so much more relaxed on this flight. My muscles are relaxed now.

She put another blanket on me soon after. I don't even know how she got two blankets.

I have the aisle seat because the Aisle Seat God and I are tight. As I'm sleeping, I feel a bump against my arm... When I slightly raise my head to check the scene I see this 60 year old woman standing over my seat trying to get out to go to the restroom! What!? She didn't want to disturb me?! She had one foot on my arm rest, and the other foot on hers!  She jumped down! She's not wearing flats. Who IS this woman! 

Mt. Nimba

HOW TO I BEGIN? How do I start this tale of tears? I'm actually really debating this. In fact, I've been debating all day long how I would write this post. Should I lie to you and tell you about how beautiful and character-building my trip up the trail to Nimba was? Or should I be brutally honest about this horrific day? And if I'm honest, how should I limit my cursing? These are the kinds of questions that have been swirling in the back of my mind today.

The louder, more prominent questions in my mind were ones such as- Why am I here? Why did I agree to this? Why isn't this fun yet? Why are my knees bruised? How will I survive? Am I'm going to faint? Can anyone hear me well enough to know I need help? And lastly, what am I gaining from this?

This last question is the only one that has an answer. The answer is: A story. I have gained a life story today. So listen up.

We woke up just 30 minutes earlier than usual. Big deal. The car came to pick us up at 6:00am. Still dark, duh. Everything here happens when it's "still dark."

We get into that dang car holy cowwww that car. The engine and everything was fine, somehow. But the rest of the thing... Imagine placing just 25 nails and bolts into a small metal toolbox. Now, intensely shake that tool box. The sound of the hypothetical naily toolbox is the sound of the literal car I rode in today. It was about to break into all its individual tiny pieces.

This ratchet car takes us towards the Liberian border (which is only 4km away, I'll have you know). Before we get to that line, we turn left. Eventually we made it to a little town called something prolly like "Seringbarah." That's how you pronounce it.

We hop out the car. Not dark anymore. The sun has risen. 

This is where the excrement starts hitting the fan: As soon as I allow my feet to carry me out of that vehicle. 

So, here we are walking on a nicely beaten path through glorious fields of tall crops. I actually complemented the path out loud to my fellow hikers, Cat and (prolly) Bunifas. "Wow! This is a well-worn path! I like it!" It was smooth and hard and easy to navigate. 

Then we hit a river. Across the river is a tree bridge. Big deal, everyone has walked across a tree bridge. "That was kinda fun," I said after crossing safely. What is the opposite of 'foreshadow'??

PLAN: To first reach the Nimba chimp researchers' campsite in order to meet up with a guide who is much more experienced in these mountains than our guide named Bonifas. The man we were to meet at the Nimba camp would be able to take us alllll the way up to the very top of the Mt. Nimba! So, we head out to find this dude.

As we walk, I become winded. Is that the correct way of describing this? I needed wind sucked into my lungs. We walk for two hours. Every once in a while we would have to cross another river. Or it coulda been the same river for all I know. To cross, we would jump across rocks or strewn branches. I lost count after about 7 rivers... There were so many more. And the streams got harder and harder to cross the further we got to the center on the forest. It was exponential. We'll come back to this.

    In all honesty, as I've promised, I started to die within this 2-hour period. This is where the dying begins. I just can't breathe well. I'm not a good breather. I also have blue eyes, dirty blonde hair, and little ears. These are just things about me that I know are true. I suck at supplying my muscles with sufficient air during aerobic activities, "exercise-induced asthma." I had an asthma attack only once in my whole life. Fall of 2012, rowing tryouts. They had us running around in circles, seemingly to prove our lung capacities. My lungs quit out of nowhere and I panicked and it was a wholly horrible experience. Luckily I had a good friend there to help calm me. Later that week I went to the doctor to get the required physical to row... But ended up walking out with an inhaler. Surprise, you have asthma. 

Sorry, that detail was necessary. But let's move onnnnnn.

We walk and walk and I'm going along rather slowly as to save my breath and keep my cool. Cat and our guide are way ahead of me. Constantly. And honestly (again), I'm just gonna call them out for this right here because idgaf. This is an important detail as well. They were constantly CONSTANTLY out of eyesight. This was the initial psychological component that would contribute to my imminent doom. There were others later. 

But, it wasn't like I thought they weren't listening or forgot about me or didn't care. It's just, I couldn't see humans. I was walking alone in the most remote place I had ever been. So remote. So far away from everything. And something about the way my mind has turned out makes me need human moral support. And I did not have ANY OF THAT THIS MORNING.

So yeah! I was winded! But, duh, hiking is tough. Actually, they have a saying in Nimba that goes, "Bossou steep is Nimba flat." So I knew what I was getting into. It was gonna be a difficult trip. In fact, yesterday one of our guides started laughing when he heard we were going to climb Mt. Nimba. He said, "hahaha lol it's so hard!!" 

When we made it to the camp, FINALLY, no one was there. Which is normal because everyone shoulda been out working. I, panting, ate a small snack while Bonifas tried to contact the guide we were supposed to meet using a walki-talkie. Ants got on my backpack which was irritating af. Bonifas couldn't get anyone to answer the radio. Ugghh, what to do? Oh I know, let's walk 20 minutes back where we just came from because I don't know why! Everything is happening in French! 

We go pretty far back on the trail and take a turn at a fork. We walk up that one for 15 minutes until finally I find myself standing on a rock in the middle of a river waiting for Bonifas to do something in French that involves going ahead and then returning. Here, I take a selfie.

Guess what, turn around and hike ALL THE WAY BACK to the camp we were just at!! God, I am TIRED! Can't we rest!? 

No way, because now we have lost time. We need to find this guide who is untraceable and unable to answer his walkie-talkie. 

Here's where it gets good. Don't stop reading yet. Here it comes.

At this point, I'm tired. I'm going very slowly, and they are way ahead. I should mention that they stop up ahead of me to wait from time to time. I would get one quick glimpse of their backpacks before they would vanish again. 

My strategy was to stay calm. I can't stress about where they are. I need to just focus on breathing in through my nose and out through my mouth like everyone always talks about. Slowly, I walking up the mountain. I could hear Bonifas calling on the radio for the other guide every five minutes. No luck.

I start getting more and more exasperated. But not just my lungs now. The lack of oxygen I'm bringing in is affecting my muscles, as it does. Ouchhh. And I start worrying. What I'm worried about now, my second pathological component, is not being able to make it to the top. I won't be able to make it 4 more hours up, plus the decent. I worry about how this will affect Cat, the serious mountaineer hiker woman that she is. She's been so excited for this trip to Nimba... I don't wanna ruin it. These thoughts are heavy on my mind... And my body is feeling heavier and heavier with every step. I start to KNOW that I won't be able to reach the summit.

Everything I'm thinking and feeling gets worse at a steady rate. Let's start summing this idea up with the word 'anxiety', just for simplification. I was anxious. Sooooo anxious. And soon I'm battling to keep my emotions in check. 

Inclined plane after inclined plane, we hike. But this wasn't just walking upwards, please remember. This required actively and persistently maintaining one's balance among stones, roots, small trees, broken branches, holes, crevasses, and loose dirt. This balancing act takes up more energy than you'd prolly expect. I just feel like I need to justify my exhaustion. Do I? Or will you just trust that this was very tough terrain? Prolly black-diamond. 

Ok, I was almost in tears by the time we got to our 15th river crossing. River crossings are KEY POINTS in this journey because my hiking boots were bought for the super dry season in Brazil and therefore are not in the least bit waterproof. The rocks were slippery and often too far apart. I actually pole vaulted gaps. Legit. And like I said before, each stream was harder to cross than the last. Ending up with a foot in the water would be a very a seriously drastic situation... So I started getting more and more nervous each time we began descending into a river valley. 

Finally, as I was choking back stress-tears, I slipped. Both feet deep into the river. I remember so well how the flush of water felt from my toes up to my shins. Cold. When I heaved my way out onto the bank, all I could do was curl up into a ball and cry it out. The others were way ahead of me, which was perfect... Because I don't cry in front of people. I didn't know if they even knew I was soaked. Whew, I lost it there for a solid 7 minutes. Cat tried to come talk to me, but I didn't want that to be happening. I wrung out my sock, wiped my teary/snotty face, and continued up the mountain. With a confidence level of about zero. 

Everyone always wants to say "profusely" when they talk about sweating. Because of this, it sounds average. The amount I was sweating today was no doubt worse than average. I was sweating cats and dogs. The flood gates of my sweat glands were bombarded with a never-quieting surge of lukewarm salty rapids. It was quite a feeling. 

Plus, now my boots are twice as heavy from the water, you know. And my feet are slipping and sliding within them. So that sucks. After my little breakdown, Cat cuts me off a walking stick. I can't really tell how much that helped. We also cannot get in contact with the guide we were supposed to meet. Bonifas is calling and calling. I am midway to my doom.

Here's the climax: I know in my mind that I can't continue on. Every single step I take hurts. My chest and heart hurt. My lungs are painfully gasping. I stop periodically to catch my breath as a way of fending off the asthma attack I knew was coming. I could tell my throat was getting closer to closing up. This starts to scare me.. Which in turn makes my heart beat faster... With in turn makes my body beg for more oxygen. Do you feel the severity of the situation? 

I come closer and closer to losing my breath completely. My muscles are screaming, weaker and weaker. The weaker my legs become, the clumsier my walking gets. And this gets me into one predicament after the other. This is another psychological component- I can't walk right, I'm going to get hurt.

  Ok, so then I have an asthma attack. I'm at the base of a very steep section of the climb. It starts slow... But builds in strength because I'm getting scared. I panic. I'm alone; Cat and Bonifas are out of earshot. I raise my arms above my head. The top of my throat seems to have been pinched closed. Are you kidding?! I GASP and GASP, while trying to calm myself down. I alternate thoughts like, "Oh my god, this can't happen right here!" And, "Leigh Anna, just calm your mind and focus on slowing down your heart beat." Back and forth, my mind battles. I start diving further into breathlessness... My gasps are now unavoidably audible. Which was embarrassing, but I'm pretty positive no one could hear me. What's a synonym for 'gasp'? Oh my god, I was panicking! Desperately trying to open my mouth wide enough to allow for more air to pass to my lungs- knowing that the real problem was deeper in my throat. 

Luckily, my positive brain waves won out- and eventually I caught my breath. I talked myself out of it. I knew that I couldn't let myself get any worse than I just had.

I opened my eyes and instantly remembered that I was at the bottom of that steep climb. Are you kidding? Is this real life? Who put me on this mountain!??! Is this place a VACCUUM!??! I felt like Spongebob that one time we needed water. 

The realization almost broke me down into another cry-fest. But I COULD NOT let myself lose control of my breathing again! So I wasn't allowed to cry! But everything in my mind was building up, and my muscles hurt. 

I climbed the hill, wrestling back tears. We walked for ever, at LEAST another hour and a half. Time was distorted for me. This was psychological Hell on Earth.You think I'm exaggerating. 

Finally, Bonifas reached his limit of trail knowledge. And still he hadn't gotten ahold of the other guide. Cat the told me we would have to turn back.

It was as if The Lord Buddha himself decided to intercept the radio waves right out of the mountain's misty air for me. The Lord clenched the radio waves in his mighty fist and crumbled them to dust. Slapped them straight out of thin air. I knew for a fact that I couldn't have continued for much longer. I would have to give up. I KNEW IT. I was very confident in this. But, a saving grace. So, we turned around. Walked for at least 3 hours back down. I was literally in so much pain. But my breathing was fine; gravity did most of this work.

I have never been involved in a more physically exhausting activity in my entire life. I've never been in such a remote location. Psychical exhaustion has never brought me to tears before. I was so terrified. 

Some of my first reactions when I returned home were:

 

If you told me you would give me $10,000 if tomorrow I do what I did today, I would refuse. $15,000! If you SHOWED ME THE MONEY. I would refuse your offer, I swear.

It's like, this experience and 5th grade staph infection might be tied for Most Physically Miserable Moments of my life. I would rather get mono tomorrow than hike that damn mountain.

I would trade the memory of today for a week's worth of mono.

We went on this hiking trip for FUN. Literally cannot think of a fun portion of that [expletive] hike. NOTHING ENJOYABLE AT ALL. Zero fun. In fact, I think my job in Hell will be to hike for fun.

I will have nightmares about hiking for fun. Unless I'm fighting for the lives of my little sisters in the Hunger Games, I will never place my feet on Mt. Nimba again. I won't even fight for my own life on Mt. Nimba again. I cannot bare one more memory.

If you told me that if I made it to the summit of Mt. Nimba, world peace would be installed successfully- I would hire a stunt double for everything I'm worth.

Actually, when we got home a new Japanese researcher was there waiting for us. He pulled out a jar of Nutella and I swear on my life I almost burst out in tears of joy in front of that man. 

Things I realistically gained from the Mt. Nimba torture chamber:

-A cute pic of two frogs.

-A cute pic of a black and yellow grasshopper.

-I met the largest tree of my life.

-I can now say that I've hiked through primary rainforest in West Africa (very rare).

These gains are minimal in my mind. But, I hope you enjoyed the story. My knees are bruised and I didn't even bump them. Bruised from the inside. My soul is also black and blue I bet.

The market!

Thank freaking goodness I got to go the that market. I woulda been so sad if I had been required to work instead. Luckily, Cat and I could find time to go this Wednesday. 

We stayed in the forest waiting for the chimps that day until about 12pm. Then, we made our way down to the center of town.

It was a literal dream come true. Everything I wanted and hoped for. 

Stall after stall of baked, dried, and manufactured goods. HUNDREDS of people from all over. Beautiful colors and patterns. Adorable children. Smells of food and cloth and dust-stirred air. It was great. I really enjoyed myself!!

Shopping List:

 Bread

 Eggs

 Peanuts

 Pineapple

 Souvenir 

The only thing we didn't purchase was the pineapple. 

We started out wondering aimlessly. The city was sectioned off into areas that sold clothes, food, home supplies, cloth, and electronics. We ventured around all of these areas quickly. Then we ran into one of our chimp guides! They get Market Day off, so we weren't surprised to see him. He said he would help us find the items in our list!

 We followed Vincent around and around looking for the best priced bread and uncooked eggs. We found these items and he helped us bargain. 

All while wandering, I could tell I was standing out like a red sore thumb. People stared. My favorite thing is when children run up to me to shake my hand. I allllways shake their hands. And I always wave when I see them waving from a distance. It's cute. And I know that I look weird here, so it's all just very interesting to observe. 

 I figured out where everyone gets those soccer jerseys from. There were about 4billion being sold at the market. And lots and lots of other nice clothes. All secondhand, but you really couldn't guess that just by looking at them. People here dress so nicely. And COOL. The guys here look cool. 

   Vincent had us meet a million of his family members. We kept running into them! He was so nice to run around with us. He even helped us figure out what we should buy as souvenirs!... Cloth!! You could buy a huge sheet of colorful cloth for $5-$7! So once Cat and I got our groceries, we started looking around for the perfect cloth. As for me, I wanted a colorful, representative piece of fabric that would show the personality of the town AND of myself. 

It was so hard picking out a fabric. SO DIFFICULT. Cuz there were 200trilkion different funky options. Some had birds, flowers, chickens, polygons, foods, and arts painted on them. Others had interesting objects on them... Like roller skates and electric fans.

 I found a nicely decorated blue cloth that I really liked... But I just couldn't make up my mind!!!!!!

 I left the blue fabric. We walked a little ways away from it until I found the fabric I needed. Here it is:

See the soccer ball!?

Just before we left Vincent, he invited us over to his house later that evening. YAY! I wanted to see where he lived! And I wanted another reason to come to town!!!! 

We left the market, took guard out in the woods for another two hours, then gave up. We know that on Market Day the chimps do a lot of crop raiding while the farmers are out shopping. They do this waaay far away across the forest from us. So we weren't expecting to see them. We left the woods and stared getting ready for supper.

Mmmm, rice and beans.

Then- sure enough- Vincent walked up to the house to get us! Cat and I made sure to where nice clean clothes for this occasion. Who knows who we were going to meet!

We walked into and across town. Vincent had his cellphone playing some cool music the whole way, which made a great soundtrack. I can't believe how many children there are here. SO MANY. Hundreds and hundreds of children all over. The world is their daycare. It was so awesome getting to walk around the town to see the sights.

Then, we pull up to Vincent's house. Here it is:

On the inside, we were led to the floor of the family bedroom. The house had all cement walls and a tin roof. The tile floor of the bedroom was bright green patterned and marvelous. I complemented it out loud. 

Vincent pulled out two dishes of food, a communal bowl, a single large cup of water, and three spoons. Oh no! We just ate dinner!! This dinner was rice and fish sauce. Cat and I ate several bites and apologized.

After dinner and chit-chat we started meeting the kids. Vincent has 5 of his own. But they had friends. We met them all! We talked and talked. I listened to the translations Cat was providing. Vincent pulled out a children's French workbook... Which doubled as a photo album! He had a single photo slid in between each of the 30 or so pages. We went through all the photos and he described who was in each one. This was a cool experience.

By the way, this was all happening on the floor in the pitch black dark. Well, minus the small lantern lit in the corner. It was so hard for me to see. But the kids didn't seem held back AT ALL by the darkness!! They ran and jumped and found things they were looking for. I was so confused. How big are their pupils!? 

Then, we walked home. Vincent guiding us, of course. I tried to play it cool and not use my headlamp... But I just knew I was gotta break an ankle. So I lit up the street for us. 

Passing through the village at night was cool. There were so many kids out playing still. Plus grown-ups doing grown-up things. We passed at least three bars playing loud music with neon signs hanging. I wanted to poke my head inside the doors so badly. Also, we passed a "video club." THIS kind of this is right up my alley. #Beyonce. A popular thing to do here is to watch music videos. I stopped to watch one from the street. It was of an ugly guy singing and moving around awkwardly. But he had drawn a crowd of people in Bossou! How interesting! What made that guy appealing!? 

Then, we made it home. Wow! 

I heard y'all were cold...

I'd hate start out like this, but I'm over here in shorts and a t-shirt while 

ya'll are swirling around in an "arctic vortex." I turned on my phone this morning and was surprised to see that every text or email I'd received during the night contained the writer's current local temperature. I felt like I was Mother Nature getting updates from her scattered correspondents. I'm so sorry y'all are below freezing! I've predicted that a blonde woman with red lipstick from Fox News will soon challenge "global warming" on live television based on these historic temperatures. Email me when you see that!! 

Love y'all. Miss y'all. 

I finally took photos today. I just wanna warn you.... The capuchins from this summer let me get a lot closer to them to take photos... These chimp pics have to be snapped from a distance. :-/ So don't expect anything amazing. Tomorrow is Market Day- so hopefully I can grab some good photos of some good things there. 

The chimps were reunited today! They travelled together, prolly like 7 of them, to our observation area. Only two cracked nuts though... Which is weird. They just haven't wanted to crack this past week! I think I know why...

  They've been crop raiding!!! These guys steal the villagers' crops! Oh it's such a problem. Rice, pineapples, everything. And when they do this, our guides can't follow them. They have to leave them. It's a social issue too, you see.

Today I discovered the outdoor shower. I mean, I certainly knew this thing existed- I walk by it everyday, but today I DISCOVERED it.  There's been too many people around before! See, there's no door to the thing. It's just out in the backyard. Merely a circle of tall palm fronds and a pebble floor. I've not wanted anyone to stumble upon me showering (like I stumbled upon that British guy's tush!)... So I just kept using the cold, dark indoor shower. "Dark"as in, I have to set up flashlight in order to see what I'm doing.

   But in this outdoor shower... It's bright! OH THE SUN!! The SUN! The sun shines bright above me and warms me!! The water is still icy cold coming out of that bucket... But still!! My, how refreshing.

(I don't know if that was blog worthy.)

Oh, I wanted to share: Cat told me that you can always tell which American football teams have had a bad season because more of their apparel gets donated and ends up here. I don't know how much of that is true... But I do just want to mention that I saw a woman wearing a Florida Gators jacket the other day. 

And a kid with an Atlanta Braves hat...

So, keeping up with my fascination with old chimps (and people): Cat said that there are places around her hometown in Scotland that have an age expectancy of roughly 47 years old (men). I have met wild chimps older than that. 4 of them. They don't have medicines. Explain to me how wild chimps can live longer than humans who live in a nation that provides free health care. But... But...we are so smart! 

What elseeee what elseee que maissss que maisssss. Idk, I'm just worried about all you being so cold. 

Matsuzawa's got skeletons in the closet...

Except, it's more like a shed than a closet. A big shed! It's been out behind our building this whole time, but you've gotta have a key to get in. And now we's gots tha key!! (The skeleton key!)

So we bust up in that shed and start digging around for buried treasure. We know what we're looking for. There are about 2,000 pairs of stones piled up and marked off (people who study tool use have a serious stone fetish, I'm starting to learn). Piles and piles of scientific materials. But Cat finds the treasure chest! So we dive in. 

Wanna see what we found?

Two full human skeletons!! Lol jk they're chimps. Kai and Poni. They died from respiratory infections, *moment of silence*, in 2003. Kai was 53 and Poni was 10. They were surely different characters. But both were right-handed. Did I tell you that? Chimps prefer a certain hand 100% of the time when they crack nuts. And the population is almost split 50-50 between righties and lefties. Fun fact.

Why we were bone digging: Cat's got a friend who's an anthropology-archeology- Indiana Jones-type who specializes in the evolution of human tool use. So our job was to measure these arm bones reeeeal thoroughly. It's not every day that you come across a nut cracking chimp's entire skeleton. Actually... Cat's not sure if there are ANY others in human possession. So, we've got our hands on two hot commodities. Stinky* commodities. If we measure the arms and shoulders well enough, maybe Cat's friends can learn something about how to tell if a skeleton's owner was left or right-handed. See where we're going with this? 

Well, our plan was to measure bones in that shed from 7am to around 10am. Lol @ THAT because it took us until 3pm to get everything measured and photographed perfectly. It was backbreaking work. Every time it hit me how bad my back hurt my eyes would catch a glimpse of Kai's crumbled vertebrae in the corner... I guess my pain was pretty minor. But still! We were working hard!!! 

We had to be as precise as possible because Matsuzawa can't bring Kai and Poni out of the country... So if anyone wants to see them they either have to come to Bossou or find pictures. We were using calipers and scales and rulers and that black and white piece of paper.

Honestly, I don't know if I coulda done something more sciencey today. That's as sciencey as it gets. 

:-) :-)     (-: (-: 

I know many of you are starting spring semester today. I can't even feel sorry for any of you because you shoulda dropped out of school like me. So this is what you get! 

But really, :-) be thankful. Especially you females out there... Someone here told me that the girls in Bossou are taken out of school much earlier than the boys so that they can help take care of their siblings. MUCH earlier. Imagine not getting paid to babysit. 

It's just me and Cat here now. We have the whole place to ourselves. 

And by the way- I've taken on many new responsibilities recently. Now, I get a walkie talkie and a camera and I watch the Salon all by myself. Just me and the chimps. Cat watches the other location and we stay in communication. I'm pretty happy about this.

Tuesday: Work Day

Wednesday: Market Day

Thursday: Hiking Mt. Nimba Day 

Friday: Work/Pack Day

Saturday: LEAVE Day

Yepp, we're going up to the top of Mt. Nimba. This'll be fun.

I've hurt many insects...

I'm sorry I haven't updated this thang in a minute (few days). Matsuzawa left so I've been depressed. Jk. But he really did leave. At 5:00am yesterday. What are we gonna do without him? How are we going to keep calm whilst carrying on? What will motivate me to get my life together if not the click-clacking of his multicolored pen!? 

Speaking of that, he gave us all a multicolored pen before he left. See, I told you he ordered those things in bulk. Well, at least now I have one. "A souvenir," he said. 

Things are definitely different now that Matsu's gone. The employees seem to have reapplied their normal schedule... Which is kinda funny. 

So now, Cat is in charge! Cat and I split up today in order to have cameras in both observation locations. This meant I got lots of alone time in the woods. My mind felt calm. I stretched out on the mat that I had all to myself and began reading "Catching Fire," my fourth book of the trip. It was so wonderful hearing the birds' songs mix with the silence. 

And you're like- "What about the CHIMPS!?"

They didn't visit my watch post today. Those jokers are so unpredictable. It was cool being left alone to check the water, nuts, and stones today though. I was manning the camera and everything, alone! As if I were trusted with the task. :-) Neat. 

The chimpanzees here make up one solid group... However, they often break off into smaller groups that travel alone. Very often. We haven't seen all 9 chimps together at once yet! Usually, Fanle is with her two young boys, Flanle (the rock-thrower/trouble maker), and Fanwaa (the itty baby who is so sweet). These three are sometimes accompanied by Fanle's momma, Fana. Flanle is always throwing rocks at his grandmother, which I really just don't understand because what kind of respectable young man throws ROCKS at his GRANDMOTHER? It's incredibly rude. I have to really force myself not to spank that chimp. 

The older males, Jeje (alpha) and Foaf (ex-alpha) travel together like total bros. They are serious BFFs... Unless a female is in estrus... Then the guy-code is thrown out the window. This female is usually coaxed into following them. She's prolly so bored with them.

The oooooold ladies travel around all alone. We've only see them a few times. I'm left to wonder- Have they chosen to be on the periphery of their children's lives?... Or have they been pushed there? Idk, and I can't guess. 

Before Matsu left, Flanle got real brave and threw a rock at him. This may have been my favorite scene of all the observations. The rock landed 10 meters away from Matsu, so it wasn't dangerous... But I just really couldn't believe this bravery! Coming from such a young little guy! He stood on both his back legs, reared his rock-loaded fist back over his head, and LAUNCHED the fist-sized rock straight at Matsuzawa. TWICE. He went and picked up the rock to throw again! I've heard of primates throwing items underhanded... But this overhanded throw was new! Ha! HAHA! That freakin' punk! 

So now I will leave you with the notes I've taken throughout these past few days. I've needed to remember to tell you these things:

There is nothing more stunningly brilliant than putting fresh new batteries into one's headlamp. The world! I can see! No single manipulation is more refreshing or illuminating. (Except maybe cataract surgery?)

In Guinea, infant babies (human) are carried on their mother's backs with a single (sturdy) cloth. I don't get how it works. But they have full faith. I once saw a mother readjust her baby's carrying cloth. It was somewhat remarkable. And also it scared me. The mom simply leaned over, making her body into a 90 degree angle. She untied the cloth, leaving the infant wiggling freely on her back. <- that was the scary part. Then, she just tied the cloth in a knot around her belly. Just like I retie the cloth rope around my robe. No problem. 

I read a book while I was gone called "Orlanda." It was super. This is just a quote that I thought was hilarious. The main character said: 

"I am the most boring person imaginable and I have no means of avoiding my own company."

I know that some of you are wondering about this: No, I haven't seen any guinea pigs.

Want some pics of my house?? 

My room.

Our bathroom.

I dunno what I'm gonna do when I grow up. 

 But for now, I'm just gonna keep flicking these ants away.

Happy New Year

Hello!! Happy New Year! 2014 will be better than 2013! Let's make a list of New Year's Resolutions! To better ourselves! 

The chimps were so naughty yesterday (December 31st). Only 3 of them showed up! And they didn't even crack nuts! They just walked straight through our observation area! Are you kidding!? We've been waiting for hours!

So I left. And started waiting and wondering about the soccer game.

Next thing I know... The women are all lined up on the field with matching uniforms. :-/ Oops. What about me? I got really sad. And I didn't want to interrupt or be a burden or hold up the game. So I just let it start. I was standing on the sidelines watching. The women were either barefooted or wearing their son's soccer cleats. None of them have ever played before, it seemed like. Even Matsuzawa said this was their first match.

I was pretty disappointed, as you can imagine. But even as I watched the game with this disappointment, I knew I didn't belong on that field with them. That was their special game on their special day.

New Years is the biggest day if the year in Bossou. 

As I stood watching, the women who delivered my invitation walked past me. She did a double-take, then approached me! This was my chance!! She probably said something like, "Don't you want to play!?" So I was like, "YES I DO!!!" She made hand motions and said many French words that made me know that I would be playing during the second half. Yay!!!!! My spirits were lifted!!!

So I walked 2 minutes back to the house to put my tennis shoes on and maybe put on a white shirt to match the Bossou women. 

But as I walked up the steps in front of my room's door, a small crowd people started calling me name. When I looked up I realized that a group photo was being organized. All of the researchers and field assistants. The 2013 Bossou-Nimba Research Team. So I hurried over and plopped myself down right behind Matsuzawa. It took forever and a half to round up all the other participants. Everyone was scattered and there were a trillion people around for the New Year's celebration. I started to worry that half time was coming!

It took forever. Finally, about 45 photos of us were taken! I left to apply bug spray before running up to the soccer field.... But when I exited my room, everyone had vanished! What!? And someone called to tell me we were eating now.    ...But what about the game?...

I ignored the call for dinner to go check out the soccer field. The teams had already switched sides. Halftime was over and it was too late to join. *sigh*

Man, I sure was disappointed. But I headed out back to eat.

Dinner consisted of rice, soup, and the pigs the villagers sacrificed earlier. I heard the pigs die from the forest. Serious.

The women served the Westerners food in individual bowls as the men took turns toasting to the new year. Everyone from the chimpanzee research teams was there; all the guides, cooks, assistants, and housekeepers. All of the employees. Everyone toasted and made little speeches. Some were in French, some were in Manon (local language). So essentially, I had no idea what anyone was saying. I just clapped and nodded. 

The Manon speeches were the best because they sounded like sermons. Like, how in church sometimes pastors will say a certain phrase that cues the congregation to answer with a certain phrase. You know what I mean? Well, these guys were doing that. It was so neat. Everyone knew what to say perfectly, and it was always different. Ritualistic. And the men were all so fluent at cueing. I loved it. 

Eventually, it was time to eat. Like I said, we foreigners had individual bowls and spoons... But we were an anomaly. The women had been filling 5 huge platter-bowls full of the soupy rice during the speeches! Then, each bowl was distributed to 4 or 5 men to share. The men squatted or sat down next to the bowls and began eating. No spoons, no forks, no tables necessary. It was such an interesting sight to see! So cultural! Pretty cool.

Well, eventually I snuck away... I needed to play ball so badly.

I heard a ball bouncing against a wall- so I headed towards it.

I rounded the corner of a building to find a little boy playing alone with a soccer ball. I said, "Psst!!! Moi jeux?" Lol which was the literal bare minimum language necessary. He smiled so big and tossed me the ball.

And we plaaaayyyyeddddd. For an hour. Until it got dark, I mean. Other boys saw what was going on and came to join. All of the boys were under the age of 11... But all were surprisingly skilled with their feet! We just juggled, trying to keep the ball off the ground. Then, we did tricks! I love juggling tricks, so I was showing the boys the ticks I knew. After I would do a little trick, all the boys would take turns trying the same one! Then I would teach them slowly. It was pretty awesome. We laughed and had a blast. 

One main point about this experience was that I am not sure these boys had ever seen a girl do some of those things with a soccer ball. So, maybe... I opened their eyes? I don't know how to explain... But I left those boys feeling like an accomplished feminist. 

But for real, HAPPY NEW YEAR. I will be visiting a lot of you this year since I dropped out of college ;-). Shout out to North Carolina & Florida & the 229! Maybe even a little Pigeon Forge??